CLICK HERE TO SCHEDULE GOTCHA DAY!!!! We expect each Puppy to be Ready at 56 days old (8 weeks) & anticipate that to be when Gotcha Week begins!! You can schedule your Puppy Pickup then or within the 7-10 days after that. You may request a one-time Transfer Extension of up to 7 additional days for a Boarding Fee of $20.00/day.

We are open for pickup 7 days/week, 12-6pm EST. Unfortunately, we are not able to be available for pickups any earlier during the day. It takes us a while to get our kids, dogs, & pups up, fed, & ready for the day & then we have to make time to groom the pups who are going home too! We have attempted to be done earlier, but even try as hard as we can, we have never been successful 😅 If you need an exemption or special accommodations for Puppy Pickup, please let us know! We will try our very best to pivot where we can when we are able.

1. VISIT YOUR PUPPY'S PROFILE on the website to access their photo album & medical charts. To find your Puppy's profile, visit your pup's PAWRENTS profile & click to view their pups or enter your PUPPY ID at the end of www.silversideaussies.com/.

2. VIEW MEDICAL CHARTS (on Puppy Profile) to watch your Puppy grow & track their ENS & ESI progress too!!!

3. SUBSCRIBE TO PHOTO ALBUMS by going to "settings" inside the album itself (on Puppy's Profile). There's a LITTER ALBUM & unique PUPPY ALBUMS. We send pup-dates every week, usually on the day the pups were born (sometimes weekend are harder & if we have Puppy Pickups, please be patient as these weeks are the busiest but most exciting of all). Make sure you follow each puppy you want to watch & even their parent's album too! We are always sharing pictures of the dogs.

4. JOIN THE SILVERSIDE WOOF PACK. This group is PRIVATE for our OWNER'S ONLY. The Woof Pack is where you can share pupdates, post tips & tricks, and even arranged play dates!! We would all love to watch your puppy grow & chances are you will connect with people who love Aussies as much as you do & they more than likely have your puppy's siblings!! So it really is a fun place to be.

TO ACTIVATE THE EXTENDED WELLNESS WARRANTY, Puppy must be examined by a Licensed Vet within 10 days following Transfer. These are the bare minimum of medical necessities for keeping your puppy healthy. It is best to schedule a vet appointment as soon as you reserve your pup, as most vets are pretty booked up for non-emergency visits.

DISEASE & PARVO PREVENTATIVE CARE: Your puppy has been vaccinated & every measure has been taken to protect the puppy. However, until fully vaccinated, the puppy may still contract some diseases, including parvo & you should prevent exposure to areas of potential contact until 2 weeks after the Puppy’s 4th booster shot. Areas of potential contact include: vet clinic floors, contact with unvaccinated dogs or puppies, areas where dogs are walked, dog parks, pet stores, parking lots, & near the feces of other dogs.

MDR1 SAFETY: MDR1 is "Multi-Drug Resistance." What this means is if a dog is "affected" or carries 2 genes, your dog will have an allergy to certain medications, usually flea and tick medication. It is most common among herding dogs. WE CHOOSE OUR DOGS SO OUR PUPPIES WILL NEVER CARRY 2 GENES OF MDR1 or OTHER GENETICALLY INHERITED CONDITION which we can prescreen our dogs for. Since some of our moms are carriers (1 gene) each pup has a 50% chance of being clear or only carrying one gene. If they are carriers, they should be fine without the "safe" meds, however we always choose safe meds, even for our non-carriers. The difference is as small as Pet Armor (not safe) & Pet Armor+(safe) and usually they are the same price. WE ALWAYS USE MDR1 SAFE DRUGS!!! For more info visit: https://embarkvet.com/products/dog-health/health-conditions/mdr1-drug-sensitivity/

VACCINES: Many people choose to schedule their vet visit to coincide with your puppy's vaccination schedule. Puppy shots are recommended every 2-4 weeks until Puppy's final shot be given at no less than 16 weeks of age.

• Our Vet will administer their first vaccine at 7 weeks of age during their Wellness Exam

• Once your Pup is home, they should be seen by a Vet of your choosing within 10 days & although vaccines aren't always necessary at this age, your exam should include a Fecal Exam & any abnormal results can be reported to us within 3 days & a request for reimbursement can be filed at www.silversideaussies.com/claim

• The next shots should be administered at 10-11 weeks, 13-14 weeks, & 16-17 weeks.

• Your puppy should also receive a Rabies vaccine at their 16 week appointment.

• Talk with your Veterinarian about heartworm, flea, & tick medications & which products are safe & work for your schedule. Scroll down to see our schedule & recommendations.

• ALWAYS USE MDR1 SAFE MEDS!!!

• See the "Puppy Packet" for medications given to your pup.

It is not the number of shots that count, it is the age of the puppy. Per AAHA and WSAVA guidelines, for dogs under 16 weeks of age, Distemper/Parvovirus is given as a series of shots, starting as early as 6 weeks and continuing at 2 to 4 week intervals until no less than 16 weeks of age. This could mean shots at 8/12/16 weeks on one end of the spectrum or 6/8/10/12/14/16 weeks on the other end of the spectrum.

Puppies get Maternally Derived Antibodies (MDA's) from their mother. MDA's interfere with the protection gained from vaccinating a puppy. Most puppies will have their MDA levels low enough between 8 and 12 weeks for vaccines to be effective. However, a small number of puppies have been shown to still have MDA levels that interfere with the vaccinations up to 15 weeks of age. Hence, why the recommendation for finishing is 16 weeks of age or later.

Vets in higher risk environments (e.g. shelters or locales where outbreaks are occurring) may choose the 2 week interval and thus more shots to mitigate the risk/length of time in which the puppy is unprotected due to maternal antibody interference. Vets in lower risk environments will more frequently do a 3 or 4 week interval. Regardless of interval, it is recommend that the final shot be given at no less than 16 weeks of age.

World Small Animal Veterinary Association guidelines: https://wsava.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/WSAVA-Vaccination-Guidelines-2015.pdf

American Animal Hospital Association guidelines: https://www.aaha.org/globalassets/02-guidelines/canine-vaccination/vaccination_recommendation_for_general_practice_table.pdf

HEARTWORM PREVENTION: Heartworm disease is transmitted by mosquitoes. You should start your Puppy on Heartworm Medication ASAP, our preference is Simparica Trio. Puppies over 6 months old should be blood tested prior to being given preventative medication. Once given, the preventative should be given on a monthly basis. Puppies less than 6 months of age cannot be adequately tested due to the lifecycle of the heartworm. However, they should be given preventative medication from 8 weeks of age & then blood tested sometime between 6 months & 1 year of age.

DEWORMER: (Included in Simparica Trio) A fecal sample should be conducted at 8 weeks of age to check for intestinal parasites. Most puppies are born with intestinal parasites (roundworm & hookworm) & can acquire other worms (whipworm) from the environment or from fleas (tapeworm).

FLEA & TICK: (Included in Simparica Trio) Fleas are the number one reason for an itchy dog. Once a month, topical flea/tick preventatives can & should be used on puppies from 8 weeks of age. Even though your pup may be genetically clear, please be familiar with the MDR1 gene in Aussies. We have chosen Pet Armor PLUS or our dogs. This is a topical oil that we apply to our dogs monthly. The PLUS is a different ingredient from the regular Pet Armor and is shown to be safer & gentler for dogs that may be at risk for MDR1. It is also safe for pregnant and nursing females.

SPAY/NEUTER: Unless you plan to breed professionally, you should have your puppy spayed (female) or castrated (male) at an appropriate age. We prefer waiting as long as possible (1.5 year-2 years old) so your puppy has a chance to mature. There are several important medical advantages to neutering. Millions of dogs & cats are euthanized each year in this country simply because there are no homes for them. Owning a breeding bitch or stud is a time & money consuming occupation.

FOR REFERENCE, THIS IS THE SCHEDULE WE FOLLOW FOR OUR DOGS & PUPPIES, AS RECOMMENDED BY OUR VETERINARIAN. HOWEVER, YOU SHOULD ALWAYS FOLLOW YOUR VET'S INSTRUCTIONS.

ORDER PUPPY SUPPLIES: Visit the "PRODUCTS WE LOVE" tab, where we put together a shopping list of our favorites to start you & your puppy off on the right paw. We're always open to trying new things, so if you have something you think would work better, please let us know.

FOOD:⭐10/10 RECOMMEND PURINA PRO PLAN⭐ (preferably with probiotics & no pea or legume proteins as they cause phytoestrogen swings & infertility in healthy females). Visit the PRODUCTS page to see which blend we are currently using. We give your puppy a boost in brain & body development with high-protein, pre/probiotic fibers, DHA, Omega & Fatty Acids! Puppy's coats are softer & healthier than ever before too! We choose the sensitive blend primarily for our Dogs because fillers (soy & peas) can affect their reproductive health. We have tried lots of different blends of Purina & we have worked closely with our USDA Certified Veterinarian to find the best food for our Puppies & Dogs to give them the nutrition they need to stay healthy & strong. It's our preference to avoid added stress on your puppy by keeping their diet consistent when they leave, at least for a few weeks when transitioning to your home. However, if switching foods, we will gladly provide a sample of Purina.

TRAINING HEADSTART: We partnered with Baxter & Bella Online Training School for FREE RESOURCES & to offer you a 25% discount on their LIFETIME MEMBERSHIP. Use code "SILVERSIDE" during checkout. They have a New Puppy Checklist for before Gotcha Day, weekly training curriculum, & access to live trainers for additional support!!​

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BONUS BLANKET: We send home each puppy with their own baby blanket with littermate & mom scent. However, if you have a pet at home & want to help them prepare for a new puppy too, we will happily send a Bonus Blanket to you ahead of your Puppy Pickup for $10 to cover shipping. We take a small puppy blanket & let your puppy play with it for a while so your pet can adjust to the smell of your puppy before Gotcha day! Please make your request at least 2 weeks prior to pickup.

FINAL PAYMENT IS DUE DURING PUPPY PICKUP & your balance must be PAID IN FULL before Ownership will be Transferred. VA Sales Tax applies to all sales & if you are using digital payment methods, there is an additional CC Fees. Please reach out any time for your balance or for an invoice.

WE ACCEPT CARD OR CASH ONLY! WE DO NOT ACCEPT CHECKS, MONEY ORDERS, or other alternate forms of payment. Receipts will be provided via email.​

DISCOUNT FOR CASH!!! All Digital/Card Payments incur Service Fees (usually 4%+) so paying cash will give you the biggest discount.

WHAT'S THE ADDRESS FOR GOTCHA DAY? When you are ready to begin your Gotcha Day Journey, set your GPS to SOUTH HILL, VA 23970. We host Gotcha Day at our home, which is of course where our puppies & dogs live too. This allows us to create a safe space for you to meet the your puppy, their parents, & maybe even some littermates! We are super protective of our puppies so for their safety & ours, we do not share our address prior to "Gotcha" day (see "Can I Visit?" for details). We hope you understand our concerns & appreciate our vigilance over your new puppy!!

TEXT/EMAIL/CALL 1 HOUR BEFORE ARRIVAL, & one of us will send our address ASAP. TEXT 434-414-1144 or EMAIL silversideaussies@gmail.com. We are always checking our phones on Gotcha Day so at the most it should only be a few minutes if we are in the middle of a puppy bath. 😁 When you get here, you will be able to meet your Puppy's parents & then we will go over Puppy's medical charts, vet exam, registration & insurance paperwork, & a copy of your SILVERSIDE AUSSIES PUPPY CONTRACT, & lastly, we will complete your Final payment (see "FINAL PAYMENT")

ACTIVATE INSURANCE UP TO 24-HRS BEFORE "GOTCHA" DAY. SEE OFFER IN THE PUPPY PACKET BELOW!! That way your puppy is covered on the ride home too!! You must activate the TRUPANION policy within 24 hours after transfer or the offer will expire. This is an "Opt-In" offer, which means you do not need to provide financial information unless you choose to extend beyond the trial period.

TRAVEL TIPS Puppies may become car sick during the first few rides in a car. We do not feed puppies on Gotcha day so you will hopefully have an easy ride home, but accidents can happen.

• We recommend bringing another person along to hold your new puppy or use a dog carrier. Have your passenger frequently, but slowly, rub the puppy and talk to them in a soft voice. This proves effective most of the time to relaxing puppy.

• Bring a roll of paper towels, blanket or towel, and wet wipes along just in case your puppy does get sick. If your puppy does have motion sickness, make short trips (around the block) until he/she gets used to it.

• We would suggest you try to go straight home without stopping or consider ways to keep your puppy "Paws Off Ground" during travel (a large storage tote with pee pads so your puppy has a easy-to-clean place to potty that keeps them secure is a great idea!) If you absolutely must stop, try to find a concrete pad or small grassy area that is not frequented by dogs!!! NO REST AREAS OR DOG PARKS OR PET STORES!! Even though your puppy will be up to date on vaccinations they are still susceptible to diseases, including parvo. It is important to prevent exposure to areas of potential contact until 2 weeks after the Puppy’s final booster shot at 16+ Weeks old. Areas of potential contact include: vet clinic floors, contact with unvaccinated dogs or puppies, areas where dogs are walked, dog parks, pet stores, parking lots, & near the feces of other dogs.​

WHAT WILL MY PUP COME WITH? We know traveling with a puppy can be difficult & we want you to enjoy your first moments with your new furiend, so we pack a V.I.P.uppy Bag for each puppy which includes:

• Collar & Leash, which should fit until ~20 weeks

• Travel bowl & a bottle of water

• Disposable waste bags & pee pad

• 2 Toys & Lots of Treats

• Blanket that smells like mom

• AKC Registration Application & AKC Insurance offer

• ASDR Registration Application

• Copy of Vet Exam & Medical Papers

• If you plan to switch foods, we will provide a sample of Purina Pro Plan Puppy Food. CLICK HERE to see FLAVOR.

ONCE YOU GET HOME Take Puppy to their potty spot immediately to create a positive first experience at home. Let your Puppy know they did a good job 😉then head to their Puppy Crate & set them in with the door open. This will let them know this is THEIR SAFE SPACE & they can choose to come out when they want.

WATER: Water can taste different in different cities or neighborhoods. Your puppy may choose to not eat or drink anything for the first day. This is normal. To prepare, we gave them a Nutritional Gel (great for sick dogs & readily available) to help get them off to a great start. Just a small amount contains enough nutrition to hold them over for a whole day while they adjust.

FOOD: The puppies are eating around 1.5 -2 cups of food per day, divided into 3 meals, but now should be a good time to transition to 2 meals. If you notice early that your puppy’s appetite has decreased, there are some food items usually found in the home that may be used to entice the puppy. Cheese (all types), rice (white or brown), boiled chicken, plain or vanilla yogurt, cottage cheese, cheerios, baby food (chicken), cooked egg (scrambled or boiled), peanut butter. Please contact your local vet and us if their appetite does not resume to normal after 36 hours.

Purina recommends: "After weaning, Pro Plan can be fed moistened or dry. For best results, develop a regular feeding schedule such as three small meals a day for younger puppies. You can gradually reduce to one feeding in the morning and one in the evening as your puppy ages. The routine should not vary. As puppies near adulthood, their calorie needs may drop, and your puppy may begin leaving food in the bowl. Don’t misinterpret this as an indication of dislike for the food. Instead, begin offering less so your puppy doesn’t overeat and stays in ideal body condition.

Nestlé Purina Research indicates that avoiding overfeeding of puppies may help their development. Maintaining ideal body condition is key to encouraging proper growth in all puppies, especially large breeds. The indicated amounts are only a guideline. If your puppy becomes overweight, a reduction of your puppy’s daily food intake may be appropriate. You may wish to consult your veterinarian about a weight control program.

We would love to hear your feedback on things you liked about our process but we especially LOVE hearing about your pup! Pup-dates are always welcome! You are able to use your puppy's photo album link to upload new photos, join the Woof Pack via our website or via Facebook (which are OWNER'S ONLY GROUPS), or directly to email/text so we can watch your pup grow up too! We love & cherish each and every pup-date we get.

We would like to ask for a small favor, if you could take a few minutes to send us a review, it would mean the world to us!! Feel free to copy & paste your review to each link , if it's not too much trouble, either once your puppy is home & settled or even now since you can edit it later! 🥰 EVERY REVIEW HELPS!! CLICK HERE.

Although there are similarities between puppies & babies, please remember that your dog is not a person in a fur coat. They do not speak our language & aren’t very verbal. However, they are fluent in body language, so communicate with facial expressions & handling, as well as your voice. Don't forget that www.silversideaussies.com/info has lots of training tips as well!! 🙂

TIP #1: PUPPY SPACE In your home create a designated puppy area. It’s a room that is fairly easy to puppy-proof and has a door to outside that would always be in his sight to help with house training. Remember, giving your puppy too much space puts him further away from his or her “potty place,” which increases the likelihood he has an accident where he’s not supposed to. You can create a puppy room or space anywhere in your home, I think it just helps to do-so close by to an exterior door.

TIP #2: POTTY PLACE We recommend a “potty place” that is right outside the puppy room, so your puppy doesn't have to travel far outside of the home. A designated outdoor area should be used as the “potty”, so the pup will understand what is expected when they’re there. You can even teach to eliminate on command. Pups need to go out when they come out of the crate, after eating/drinking, after playing hard & after naps.

TIP #3: HOUSETRAINING Our #1 suggestion is to help with house training is crate training!!! Being confined motivates the pup to ask to go out. At 8 to 10 weeks, your pup should be able to stay in their crate for about 4 to 6 hours from the time they last used the potty until going back outside.

This is useful for the mature dog as well, especially if you travel with your dog or plan to show. A crate trained dog does not experience cage stress when boarding or hospitalized, since they are already used to being in their “room”.

TIP #4: CRATE SUGGESTION Make their crate inviting. A puppy’s crate is supposed to be his safe place and his natural instincts should prevent them from having accidents in it. We recommend a crate that offers room to turn around, but not enough room to play. Too much extra space in the crate may cause puppies to go potty on one side and sleep on the other. The crate should only be big enough for relaxing – not relaxing AND potty.

We recommend a crate at least 2ft wide x 3ft long x 2ft high or larger, if you plan on using the crate into adulthood. Usually large crates come with a divider to make smaller areas for your puppy to help with potty training. While single door crates work great, we have found that 2 doors make it easier to reposition throughout the house as needed.

TIP #5: TOYS Toys should be solid, of non-shreddable materials, & large enough so your pup can’t possibly swallow one. Always leave a toy in the crate with your pup. One of the best toys is a “Kong” or “Tuffy”. It comes in various sizes & is made of hard rubber in a bell shape. You can stuff the “Kong” with various sizes & shapes of treats &/or kibble. Getting treats from the toy will distract them from your departure & gives them something to do while you are gone (hopefully instead of barking, chewing, wetting, etc.)

TIP #6: STICK TO A SCHEDULE Starting on the first night set alarms to wake up every 4 hours to take your puppy outside. We chose this method because we wanted them to understand that night time is for sleeping & going potty – not playing. Follow the 4 hour approach for about five days then increased to 6 hours. After about another five days we increased to 8 hours. We also recommend keeping a food, drink, sleep and potty journal. This is great parenting practice!

TIP #7: PUPPY PARENTING Be patient. Bringing home a puppy can be stressful and exhausting. The first few weeks are especially difficult but rewarding. The calmer you are, the calmer your puppy will be too.

WE ARE ALWAYS HERE FOR QUESTIONS!! Please reach out at any time. Our goal is to provide you & your puppy with lifetime support so that our pups find forever homes the first time, every time.

The first night at home puppy is likely to cry, whine or even bark during the night. This is because, for his first two months of life, his nights were spent snuggling into his mother and siblings and feeling warm, comfortable, and safe in their presence. Moving away from them to a new and unfamiliar environment is a huge change for him, and at night especially, he will feel lonely and will probably demonstrate this with whines and cries.

These are a few things that you can do that can help your puppy settle in and feel at home as soon as possible, which may help to reduce a stress-induced behavior problem such as crying or whining:

Ensure your puppy is tired before going to bed at night. A tired puppy will settle more easily.

Have him sleep in a small crate or his own cozy bed next to your bed, or somewhere close enough that he can sense you and doesn’t feel isolated.

Make sure his sleeping place is warm, comfortable and free of draughts.

Give him some cozy, soft bedding and a stuffed dog toy to snuggle with. He is used to being surrounded by the warm bodies of his mum and siblings while he sleeps.

Your puppy will come home with a blanket that smell like their mom, place it in his bed or crate. If not, place one of your old T-shirts or other soft item that smells of you in his bed. This will help prevent him from being overwhelmed by too many strange, new smells.

Place a ticking clock under his bedding. This will sound like his mum’s heartbeat and give him some comfort.

Consider purchasing a SmartPetLove Snuggle Puppy toy. With a pulsing heartbeat and disposable heat pack, this toy may provide comfort and relieve anxiety and related behaviors such as whining and crying.

AdaptilCalm is a synthetic pheromone that may have a comforting effect on some dogs. You can try spraying this product on the puppy’s bed 10 minutes before sleep time to help him feel calmer and more relaxed.

Sometimes music can help. Classical music has been shown to help settle dogs and there are plenty of dog-calming playlists on Spotify to choose from.

If he cries or become unsettled during the night, we recommend that you put your hand on the crate or pen, talk softly to him and wait until he settles. Don’t take him out of the crate or pen while you are settling him back to sleep unless he needs to toilet.

It is completely normal for your puppy to teethe and necessary for development.

If your puppy bites you while playing, that means playtime is over, with no exceptions. “Yelp!” to let your pup know that hurt! Then, gently place them in their crate. Keep a puppy chew toy nearby and substitute the toy for the item they’re chewing on. It’s very important to make sure that they don’t associate the crate with punishment. Once they calm down, you can let them out. Keep water and food close to their crate which should be close to the door.

Keep treats on you to reward the behaviors you want to see out of your puppy. Consistency is key!

Puppies go through an important socialization period from approximately three weeks of age to 12–14 weeks. This is a critical time in puppy development and it’s important for them to be safely and intentionally exposed to new textures underfoot, new sights, scents, and sounds, as well as meeting new people, dogs, and other animals. This critical period of early socialization starts with us at Silverside and then continues with you! Well-socialized puppies are generally playful and confident, so it can take people by surprise when these same puppies become spooked or fearful seemingly overnight—welcome to your puppy’s first fear period!

What Are Puppy Fear Periods?

Fear periods are a normal part of puppy development, but they also can be overwhelming for dogs. During fear periods, puppies become more sensitive and aware of the world around them. They may be more concerned about new objects or experiences, and even things that they previously might have enjoyed can become worrisome. Your puppy will experience two fear periods, both of which are a normal evolutionary part of puppy development. No amount of socialization can prevent them, but the good thing is you can help your puppy to work through them and come out the other side more confident

Fear Period #1: 8–11 Weeks

Puppies will generally experience their first fear period around 8–11 weeks. Coincidentally, this fear period happens right around the time they are coming home and adjusting to a new family, and starting to explore the world. Recognizing that puppies are very impressionable, you want to be thoughtful about what your puppy experiences during this critical time. It’s essential to not overwhelm a new puppy and instead to create situations where they can explore meeting new people and having new experiences without being pressured or forced to interact.

Fear Period #2: 6–14 Months

This second period often takes new puppy owners by surprise. Small breed dogs tend to experience their second fear periods earlier than large breed and giant breed puppies. This second fear period can be especially disorienting for owners because your 6-14-month-old may look like an adult dog, so it can be hard to remember that your dog is still a puppy and emotionally developing. It can feel like everything you taught your puppy has fallen apart. The confident, engaged, and smart puppy you had just a day ago is now insecure and worried about a harmless object. Don’t worry—this isn’t forever!

Training Through Fear Periods

Dogs who experience stress or trauma at this age can experience larger, related behavioral problems or consequences later in life, so it’s important to be sensitive to training needs during this time. For example, my youngest dog went through a big second fear period when she was about 10 months old, which coincided with a minor knee injury that necessitated multiple visits to vets and vet specialists. As a result, we still work on helping her remember the vet office is a fun, safe place to go. Fear periods are often misunderstood as puppies being defiant or difficult, when they’re actually just being uncertain or worried about things in the world around them.

Even confident and well-socialized puppies go through a phase of being concerned about something that might seem silly to us. Just because we know that the vacuum cleaner turning on, a plastic bag blowing in the wind, or a wobble board at training class isn’t something dangerous, your puppy doesn’t have the same understanding of the world. Fear periods are a developmentally normal part of growing up for dogs and something for us to be thoughtful and intentional about preparing for.

If your puppy suddenly develops a fear about someone or something, it can be tempting to try and force your dog to get closer and see that it isn’t scary. But this approach is far more likely to backfire and create a bigger and possibly long-lasting fear. Instead of forcing your puppy to engage in things that scare them, give them the space to explore and choose to engage at their comfort level. Try to turn the scary situation into a positive learning opportunity.

Step-by-step:

Step 1: Allow your puppy to move away from whatever they are scared of.

Step 2: Praise and reward your puppy for looking to you for guidance, and for looking at the object that scared them.

Step 3: Allow your puppy to control how close they get to what scared them, and don’t pressure or lure them to get closer. Praise and reward with treats or toys as well as for any positive curiosity or interaction including looking at the object, stepping towards it, sniffing, etc.

Step 4: Keep the training session short and fun. It’s okay if your puppy doesn’t overcome the fear and get completely comfortable with the object that frightened them. End on a positive note with lots of treating/praising.

Step 5: Try not to make a big deal about the thing your dog is afraid of, but incorporate it into future training sessions. Reward your puppy for looking at you, and any engagement with the thing they are scared of. If possible, engage your puppy with a toy. Let the puppy control the pace and stay at a distance they are comfortable with.

Don’t Panic!

Fear periods can take everyone by surprise but try not to panic. It can be helpful to keep a list of things your puppy is nervous about and try to incorporate those into future training sessions. You might be surprised to discover that the balloon that terrified your puppy yesterday might not faze them tomorrow. Try to remember this is a normal stage of development and, although it can be tempting to want to quickly show your puppy there’s nothing to be scared of, there are no shortcuts through a fear period. Your puppy is taking in an overwhelming amount of information about the world and is looking to us for reassurance and guidance. It should be our training goal whenever possible to make those experiences safe, fun, and positive.

Source: https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/training/dont-panic-training-through-and-around-puppy-fear-periods/

There is unfortunately lots of information & misinformation about dog health in general. It was widely believed before that as a blanket rule, pets should be altered early in life. However as more research has developed, we have learned that letting your Puppy grow through sexual maturity is best for their growth & development. We believe that if you can effectively & safely prevent pregnancy for your Puppy, then you should wait until your Puppy reaches sexual maturity (18-24+months of age) before surgery.

Why Wait To Spay/Neuter?

Every dog owner wants their puppy to grow up as healthy and as physically sound as possible. We want our dog to live a long, pain free life. A key factor in accomplishing the goal of a structurally sound dog is waiting to spay or neuter until after skeletal growth is complete.

Why Wait – The number one reason for waiting to alter your dog is to give their body the needed time to develop to full maturity. A dog’s skeletal system is not fully developed or done growing until 18-24 months of age. It is in the 12-24 month period when a dogs growth plates close. It is a dogs hormones that control growth and also stop growth.

The Benefits -

By waiting to spay or neuter, you allow your dogs bones and joints to develop properly. This results in a structurally sound dog that is built to last. You also allow your dog to grow properly into its breed intended form. Muscle development also occurs during the 12-18 month period. When your dogs natural hormones are in place you will see your dogs cheek muscles fill in, the chest broaden and drop, the neck, shoulder and thigh muscles thicken.

"Growth plates won’t close until at LEAST 18 months. I know a lot of you don’t want to deal with humping, marking, bloody heat cycles. But it really is for the betterment of the dog.“

“If you were to do a hysterectomy on an 8 year old girl or take away a 10 year old boys testicles, how would that affect them? It is the same concept here. Each of you is a responsible pet owner, that’s why you’ve been granted a puppy from us. Responsibly, there is no reason for early spay/neuter.”

The Consequences Of Early Spay/Neuter –

The first thing you will notice about a dog that has been sterilized too early is that they look too tall and lanky. For many breeds this is not the intended outcome and results in a dog that looks nothing like their Sire and Dam.

They never physically mature. They often over grow their breed standard and become too tall and too long. When this happens the rear legs of the dog become too straight, making the natural cushioning of the knee joint non-existent. This side effect eventually results in cruciate ligament tears and hip dysplasia.

To break this down to the most simple terms – When hormones are removed too early, a dogs joint and muscle development are severely altered and proper conformation suffers, leading to abnormalities and a dog that is prone to injuries.

“These are littermates – one was neutered pediatrically, the other left intact. Notice the permanent puppy-like body of the dog on the left. His head is narrow, his chest is narrow, his angulation is bad, he’s taller than he is long because growth plates don’t get the proper signals from testosterone or estrogen on when to close.”

“This is what pediatric neuter does to your dog. It leaves them more susceptible to an incredible amount of health issues (joint issues, multiple types of cancer). Meanwhile, the only fact in favor of early neutering is to prevent unwanted litters which can be prevented by not letting your dog roam – something we should already be on top of as responsible dog owners.”

“Dogs need hormones to grow and mature properly. Do your dog a favor and wait until he’s completely matured before neutering!” If you would like to know more of the science and facts behind this issue, please see the weblink article below.

Early Neutering In Dogs: Risks & Benefits